Archives for November 2019

How Regularly Should Your Brakes be serviced?

November 21, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Vehicle brakes should be changed when worn out, but how often do brakes require servicing? Some trucks and vehicles have rear drum brakes, but most vehicles on the road today have disc brakes on all four wheels. How disc brakes functions: the brake pads are mounted on both sides of the brake disc (also known as rotor). When a driver depresses the brake pedal, the hydraulic pressure pushes the piston (or pistons) out of the brake caliper. As a result, the two brake pads squeeze the brake disc in between them.

To operate properly, the brake pads need to be able to slide inside the brake caliper towards and away from the disc. In a brake system with a floating caliper seen in most vehicles, the caliper itself equally must be able to move on its bracket (anchor plate). In this design, the caliper goes on two slide pins.

The brake endures a lot of heat and dust during braking, as well as moisture when driving in the rain. As a result, the rust buildup may make the brake pads to stick within the bracket or the brake caliper slide pins to seize up. This issue is very common in the Rust Belt.

Similar problems happen with the rear drum brakes: rust on the brake drums can produce squeaking, and some parts, especially the parking brake components may seize up because of corrosion or lack of lubrication. Of course, the drum brakes are fully covered by the drum, and they often can last longer without servicing.

When brake pads stick, or the caliper seizes up, the brakes might not function properly or not release fully. This will make the brakes to overheat and the braking performance will be sabotaged. A brake caliper might become damaged from overheating and need replacement. In many vehicles, this issue is the prime cause of premature or uneven brake pad wear and brake caliper replacement. A squeaking noise issuing from brakes is one of the possible symptoms of this issue.

In most service shops and dealerships, mechanics check your brakes whenever your wheels are removed when doing a tire rotation or other service. Brakes cannot be properly checked without removing the wheels. That’s why, to keep your vehicle safe, we advise having your brakes properly checked at least once a year, particularly in the Rust Belt. Inspect the reviews when choosing the shop, you don’t want to trust your brakes to an incompetent mechanic.

A brake inspection typically involves inspecting the calipers or rear drum brake components, measuring the brake pad or brake shoe material thickness and checking the brake discs.

If there are indications that pads or caliper slide pins are not moving freely, your mechanic may recommend servicing your brakes. Servicing brakes does not involve replacing any component.

The disc brake service is inclusive of removing the pads and calipers, cleaning and lubricating slide pins and the caliper brackets to stop sticking or seizing. The brake discs (rotors) might equally need to be cleaned out from the surface rust, particularly on the edges, to stop squeaking. Servicing brakes doesn’t require any components.

The rear drum brake service equally involves cleaning the parts, including the parking brake components and lubricating components that need to be lubricated, as well as removing excessive rust buildup from the drums.

Should you service the brakes or change them? If the brake pads are worn out close to the safe limit or the discs are in a bad shape, it might be more cost effective to replace brakes instead of servicing them. How long will the brakes stay if you service them now? Is a vehicle safe to drive if you decide not to service brakes, but rather change them later? What is the price difference? These are the questions you can ask your mechanic or service writer when weighing pros and cons of either option.

Changing the brake pads and rotors includes brake service, which implies the brake components are equally cleaned, serviced and lubricated.
What is the benefit of servicing brakes? The benefit is that the pads will wear evenly and last longer, the caliper slide pins will not seize up, the brakes are less likely to squeak and you know your vehicle is safe. Is servicing brakes included in the maintenance schedule? There are vehicles where the periodic brake service is stated in the maintenance schedule, however in most vehicles, the maintenance schedule only state regular brake inspections. How long do brakes last on a vehicle? On average, disc brakes last for 30,000-50,000 miles. Rear drum brakes may last for up to 150,000 miles.

Is servicing the brakes expensive? Ideally a brake service costs $80-$130 per axle if no components are replaced. Both brakes on the same axle are often serviced at the same time.
If your brake discs or drums get rusted, warped, or worn unevenly, your mechanic may suggest having them turned (machined) on the brake lathe. This costs more. Warped, or unevenly worn brake discs or drums make the steering vibration and brake pedal pulsation during braking.

When Should you Replace a Tie Rod End

November 18, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

A vehicle tie rod is a component of the steering system. Some large SUVs, pickup trucks and older vehicles have the steering system that has a recirculating ball mechanism. Modern vehicles come with rack-and-pinion steering. Tie rods in both systems use the same function: they connect the steering rack or linkage to the steering knuckles. Let us examine how a tie rod functions in the rack-and-pinion steering system: the steering rack is linked to the car body, frame or subframe. Steering knuckles convey front wheels, see the diagram. When a driver turns the steering wheel, the steering rack slides and the tie rods turn the steering knuckles in the desired path
A tie rod is comprised of two components: inner and outer tie rod ends. Both tie rod ends have a ball joints. An inner tie rod end is greased and protected by the steering rack boot. The outer tie rod end is also filled with grease, but is protected by a small rubber or plastic boot. The most common issue with either tie rod ends is when they wear out and become loose. Usually this occurs when a rubber boot cracks or breaks and the moisture penetrates inside the tie rod end producing corrosion. Outer tie rod ends fail more often. Issues with tie rod ends are more common in heavier vehicles and SUVs because of greater load.

A loose or wobbling tie rod is a major safety issue as it can separate. If a tie rod end separates, the car will lose steering control. If you have observed a disabled car on the side of the road with the front wheels pointing in different directions, it’s likely one of the tie rod ends that has separated.

Signs of a loose tie rod end include a clunking, rattling or knocking noise in the front end and looseness felt in the steering. The issue is that often, a loose tie rod end may not give out any symptoms. Many mechanics will inform you that when the car comes for an oil replacement and a tie rod end (or some other components of the front end) is about to fall off, the owner might get very surprised to discover this. Because of this, the steering system, as well as brakes, suspension and other underneath parts must be checked at least once a year. The only way to properly check tie rods and other steering and suspension part is when the car is raised on a lift.
Can a bad tie rod produce shaking? Yes, an excessively worn tie rod ends produces a looseness in the steering This might result in shaking in the front end that comes and goes at some speeds. This issue is particularly common in older SUVs and pickup trucks with a recirculating-ball steering system. A weak steering damper makes this issue worse.

Tie rods are not very expensive to change. The outer tie rod replacement costs $20-$95 part plus $50-$110 labor. Changing the inner tie rod end costs a little more: $25-$102 part plus $60-$150 labor. In many vehicles, a special tool is needed to replace inner tie rod ends.

Does the car require the wheel alignment after changing a tie rod end? Yes, tie rods control steering angles. In fact, the tread or clamp connecting inner and outer tie rods is used to adjust steering angles. This implies that after the replacement of any of the tie rod ends, the car will require the wheel alignment to bring the steering and suspension angles back to within specifications. The wheel alignment could costs extra.

Should a tie rod end be changed on both sides at the same time? No, If a tie rod is in good shape, there is no need for replacement. Often, however, tie rods on both sides wear out at the same rate. If one tie rod goes bad and the other is starting to go, it makes sense to change both, so you won’t have to do the wheel alignment twice. Another reason to change a working tie rod end is when the protective boot gets damaged. Once that boot is damaged, the tie rod will not last long.

Should both, inner and outer tie rod ends be changed together? Again, there is no need to change the component if it’s good.

Does a tire rod require any maintenance? In some vehicles and trucks, tie rod ends come with grease fitting that must be greased periodically. In many modern vehicles, tie rod ends don’t require any maintenance as they are filled with grease and sealed at the factory. You can go through your owner’s manual or ask your mechanic to confirm if tie rods have grease fittings during a regular service.

Why does your steering wheel shake when you brake at high speed?

November 18, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Most motorists encounter this problem: The steering wheel begins to shake when brakes are mounted at high speed. Often, it is more observable when braking on the highway at 60-70 mph. In most situations this issue is made by warped or unevenly-worn front brake rotors (discs). A brake rotor or disc is the component that is squeezed by brake pads during braking. New brake rotors are uniformed all around and the brake force stays the same when the brakes are depressed while moving. An unevenly-worn or warped rotor has thicker and thinner spots, so the brake force differs as the rotor spins. This variation in the brake force makes the steering wheel to shake and vibrate when brakes are applied. You may equally feel a pulsation in the brake pedal.

This problem can occur with front and rear brake rotors, but the issue with front brake rotors is more likely to make the steering wheel to shake. Some vehicles have drum brakes on the rear axle. Warped or rusted rear drums can equally make the brake pedal pulsation.

What can make brake rotors wear unevenly? This occurs for a variety of reasons. Very often it occurs when the vehicle is parked outside for a long time without driving. This makes parts of the brake rotors to rust, particularly in rainy weather. Rusted brake rotors are one of the frequent causes of brake pedal pulsation and steering wheel shake. A brake disc or rotor is the component that is squeezed by brake pads when braking. New brake rotors are uniformed all around and the brake force stays the same when the brakes are applied during speed. An unevenly-worn or warped rotor has thicker and thinner spots, so the brake force differs as the rotor spins. This variation in the brake force makes the steering wheel to shake when brakes are applied. You may equally feel a pulsation in the brake pedal.

This problem can occur with front and rear brake rotors, but the issue with front rotors is more likely to make the steering wheel to shake. Some vehicles have drum brakes on the rear axle. Warped or rusted rear drums can equally cause the brake pedal pulsation.

What can make brake rotors to wear unevenly? This occurs for a variety of reasons. Very often it occurs when the vehicle is parked outside for a long time without being moved. This makes portions of the brake rotors to rust, particularly in rainy weather. Rusted brake rotors are one of the most common reasons for a brake pedal pulsation and steering wheel shake. Your repair technician may recommend changing the rotors if they get too thin to be machined, or for other reasons. Brake pads and other parts may equally need to be changed, depending on the condition.

Is it safe to drive a car if the steering wheel shakes during braking? The only way to get the answer to this particular question is to have your brakes checked by a qualified mechanic.

Is it expensive to replace brake pads and rotors? The replacement of the brake pads and brake rotors cost can range from $350 to $750 per axle, depending on the car. It’s always recommended to use only high-quality or OEM components. Having your brakes in top condition is an investment in your safety and that of your passengers.

November 12, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

The transmission fluid found in a Mitsubishi should be replaced between 15,000 and 30,000 miles, depending on your driving style. Since a transmission is more probably to undergo a hefty amount of strain in highly polluted locations, it is possible that thickened sludge and harmful particles would penetrate your transmission closer to the 15,000 mile-mark. Vehicles that typically drive less busy roads in suburban areas should be stretched to every 30,000 miles for a routine transmission fluid replacement. Either way, if you are familiar with operating on vehicle and have the necessary tools, replacing your own transmission fluid can be performed in an hour’s time or less.

Get your transmission fluid ready for drainage by driving your Mitsubishi for at least 10 minutes before starting. This will heat the transmission, letting the fluid to drain more entirely.

Elevate your vehicle at least 6 inches off the ground using a vehicle jack, so that you can carry on your project comfortably underneath it. It is extremely vital that your vehicle is evenly elevated so that the transmission pan isn’t tipped when you take it out.

Support the jack using four jack stands next to the inner side of each tire before getting under your vehicle.

Put your drip pan beneath the transmission pan under the front of your vehicle. The transmission pan on a Mitsubishi is found at the underside of your transmission, closer to the driver’s side front of the vehicle.

Uncap the drain plug at the center point of the transmission pan. Beware that hot fluid will pour out, so stay physically clear of the transmission pan as soon as the cap is let out. Your drip pan on the ground is meant to catch the draining fluid.

Have your 17mm socket wrench to unscrew the other bolts from your transmission pan after the fluid tends to have stopped dripping from the transmission pan.

Discard any leftover old transmission fluid from the floor of the transmission pan unto your drain pan.

Clean the transmission pan with the help a small amount of degreaser on your shop rag. Any old fluid left over in the pan could contaminate the new fluid, so it is vital to wipe the pan thoroughly.

Change the transmission pan by screwing the bolts back into position using your socket wrench.

Remove the four jack stands and lower your vehicle back to ground level using the vehicle jack.

Uncap the fill plug on the top of your transmission and put it aside.

Put your funnel into the fill plug to prevent unnecessary spills.

Include the first qt. of transmission fluid, using caution not to let it squirt out of the bottle too fast.

Start your engine with your emergency brake engaged.

Shift your Mitsubishi into each gear with your foot on the brake pedal in order to push the fluid through every part of the transmission.

Pour the second qt. of transmission fluid into the funnel and fill plug. The engine should still be running at this point and the emergency brake should still be all the way to the floor for safety purposes.

Place the transmission into every gear again, encouraging the fluid to pass through the transmission system.

Inspect the transmission fluid level using a screwdriver to make sure that the fluid has gotten to the top of the transmission. Mitsubishis do not typically come with a dipstick, but as long as the fluid is not overflowing, it is not too full since the level will go down a bit after the first couple drives.

Change the fill plug cap and close the hood of your car.

You can now let go your emergency brake and turn your vehicle off. Your Mitsubishi transmission fluid is now good to drive for at least another 15,000 miles.

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Ways of Lubricating Motorcycle Cables

November 10, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Motorcycle cables are attached to the throttle and the clutch. They need periodic maintenance just like every other machine, and if they are ignored or forgotten, they will eventually wear down, lowering the efficiency of the car until they eventually fail, maybe at the most inopportune time. This will leave you with a long walk, a stressful push home, and potentially expensive repairs.

It is vital to know what kind of cables you have before you continue with the rest of these steps and your maintenance. It is equally important to do some research into the type of lubricants you prefer. Some prefer to use motor oil, though it gets messy and can pick up roadside dirt. A mixture of powdered graphite and WD-40 equally works well for a lot of motorcycles or simply ask for a recommendation at your local motorcycle shop for getting the best lubricant for your particular motorcycle’s cables. You should never use chain lubricant on a cable.

Step 1 – Inspect the Type

Go through your owner’s or the shop’s manual for what type of cable you have. This will inform you if they require lubricant or not. There are actually two kinds. The first and oldest are made up of multiple wires and a steel style cable. This is the kind that should always be lubricated. The other is a more recent and more technologically advanced type. These kind are lined with Teflon, and it could actually damage the cable if you get to lubricate it.

Step 2 – Remove Cable

Unhook the cable from the lever or throttle drum at the handlebar end. Make sure you pay attention to how you unhook them so that you know exactly how to hook them up again once you have finished.

Step 3 – Set Up

Make a cut of a 45-degree angle in the corner of the plastic sandwich bag. Then, stick the end of the cable into the hole and fill the bag with your kind of lubricant. Tape it to the outside of the cable housing with the cable hanging out of it. This can equally be done without the baggie if your lubricant has a needle nose that you can put into the cable..

Step 4 – Waiting to Complete

Wait for the lubricant to run drain the inner cable. You will know it is complete when it is leaking lube on the other end. After you have stayed a few minutes, remove the bag, wipe everything down, and then hook the cables back into their original places.

It is vital to perform basic maintenance project on your cables at least twice a year. This way, you will not have to bother about them breaking or detaching from your throttle or clutch on their own.